06 Dec 2023 Opinions Trips

My first steps on the Rota Vicentina

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Ciao a tutti! Or to better say... Hello everyone!

Who am I? My name is Martina and I will be a volunteer in the Rota Vicentina Association for one year, until October 2024.

I am Italian, born and raised in a small town in the province of Bergamo from a Sardinian mother and a father from Veneto in 1998. These origins of mine have always led me to have a more open view of ‘borders’, to observe the world and the people who live it with extreme curiosity. I graduated in Communication Sciences at the University of Turin, a city that has been my home for the last three years. My three greatest passions are nature, music and ethnography. Ever since I can remember, it was really important for my father that I spent quality time in contact with nature, playing with flowers and breathing fresh air. Luckily, we’ve always lived close to mountains, so it was easy for us to go on hikes and reach some charming mountain huts. Music has always been a dear life companion for me: when I was a little girl I already had my CD collection to be proud of. Nowadays, I create Spotify playlists for each place I live in. I strongly believe that every phase of life has its unique ‘mood,’ and there’s something wonderful about reliving those moments through music. I also mentioned ethnography because I love learning about the cultures that characterize different territories, seeking both the common threads that connect us and the distinctiveness of each. Understanding their evolution over the centuries fascinates me. I love talking to older people; they are a precious source to cherish as they are fundamental pillars of our society.

Hiking in Rota Vicentina

It was during my first 4-day hike along the Historical Way and the Fishermen’s Trail that I experienced the energy of these connections at first hand.

My French colleague Nina and I started our adventure on the morning of 25 October from the village of Odemira, where we currently reside. Our first stage included 19 km in the Alentejo hinterland, arriving in the town of S. Teotónio. On the following days we headed towards the coast through the localities of Cavaleiro, Almograve and Vila Nova de Milfontes. On the last day, we returned to the Historical Way passing via Cercal do Alentejo and ending in S. Luís.



The inland routes are less known and for me also the most authentic. The only encounters you come across on the way are friendly wild animals, Portuguese farmers always ready to give you a warm greeting, or people who’ve chosen to leave the buzz of city life to live in nature in picturesque houses nestled in the surrounding hills. In these places I really understood the definition of “caminante”. I still remember the two women we met along the way who, intrigued by the sound of our footsteps and our chatter, leaned out to have a word with us. In less than 10 minutes they told us about their life journey and why they had decided to adopt this new lifestyle.

Rota Vicentina official partners

On our journey, we wanted to experience the Rota Vicentina as authentically as possible, and to achieve this, one of our main objectives was to get to know as many partners as possible. That is why we relied on them for accommodation, food and much more.

What unites them all, in my view, is the passion with which they approach their work. None of them, in our interactions, simply carried out their duties; instead, they eagerly shared their deep love for the land, expressing how they cherish and care for it each day. If I had to describe with one word the feelings I experienced during these four days I would use the word ‘welcoming’. Talking to the managers of the accommodations where we stayed, the waiters, taxi drivers, etc. was an inspiration to me. Without them, Rota Vicentina would not be the same.



In particular, I would like to thank the wonderful people I was able to relate to during this first short experience.

Starting with Fátima Viegas, owner of the company Táxi Cantina, who offered us a lift from S. Teotónio to our first accommodation along the Alentejo coast. Extremely professional, her energy is sparkling and contagious. On the way, she made a diversion for us to watch the beautiful sunset at Zambujeira do Mar and to show us the characteristic fishing village further north called ‘Entrada da Barca’. I continue with Herdade do Touril by thanking them for the wonderful stay you gave us.

Luís welcomed us with open arms, taking us on a tour of the facility, explaining where the idea of creating a farmhouse that has a low impact on nature came from. Everything in here follows the principles of sustainability: from the construction of the houses using the traditional Alentejo method, which maintains an ideal temperature in both summer and winter, to the water in the swimming pool purified with salt, to the 0-km culinary products. For dinner, they delighted us in their restaurant with typical regional dishes: Alentejano wine, Alentejano bread, local fruit and vegetables and fresh fish caught daily by their trusted fishermen. Such a dream! Their strength is also the fact that they are just a stone’s throw from the sea. In fact, only 900 meters away from the reception there’s ‘Praia do Tonel’ beach and also the Fishermen’s Trail. A must-see destination if you are passing by here. Thanks to the bar-restaurant Rocamar in Cavaleiro, right after Cabo Sardao, where we ate an excellent octopus “alentejana style”.



Thanks to Nadia of Almograve Beach Hostel who reserved for us a very cozy room in the center of Almograve. Here it was magical to meet other backpackers; at the entrance this time there was a tidy row of trekking shoes, each with its own story to tell. The same day for dinner we were guests of Lady Ondina, at her café in Almograve. She also runs the Snack-Bar Adélia in Cavaleiro village.

In addition to the walkers, here you will meet over a beer and a plate of lupins, the real stars of the place… the locals. And finally, thanks to Três Marias Countryhouse who treated us during our last night.

It was a pleasure to meet the manager Diogo and be inspired by the passion he puts into his work. To the north of Vila Nova de Milfontes, here time seems to stand still and nature is the main protagonist, enveloping every single corner of the place. At dinner with local dishes, a magical vibe filled the air. We enjoyed exceptional Alentejo wine, surrounded by friendly smiles from both new and familiar faces who come back every year. To finish our journey, they gave us a tasty packed lunch and a ride to Cercal do Alentejo with their shuttle service. If you want to experience the charm of the ‘slow life’, make sure to drop by to visit them. If you want to stay updated on my upcoming adventures in Rota Vicentina, go follow the new Tik Tok profile of Rota Vicentina! In the meantime, I say goodbye and hope to see you around here soon! Até já!

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Martina Tosi

Martina nasceu em Itália em 1998. Terminou os seus estudos em Ciências da Comunicação e, como uma incansável sonhadora, ainda está à procura do seu caminho. Uma coisa é certa: a sua paixão pela natureza e pela etnografia foram sempre as suas fiéis companheiras de viagem. Desde outubro de 2023, é voluntária de longa duração […]

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